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Roji Lane Walking
Narrow ways to see hidden worlds of traditional life
One of the best ways to see Kyoto is on foot. Naturally, streets where cars are far and few between make for the best walking. Even better though are the streets where cars can't even go. Kyoto has many of these narrow lanes. They are called roji and they are well worth hunting for and exploring. Many of them are very short, some nice and long, and a few join with others and seem to go on and on.
Invariably, roji offer those intent on finding something new something even better: a hidden world of daily life, far from the madding crowd and the multiple disturbances of the combustion engine.
The best areas to find roji are just southwest of Ginkaku-ji Temple, west of Kodai-ji Temple and in the Gion, Pontocho area. Here are a few directions and details to make your explorations successful and rewarding.
Ginkaku-ji Area
Almost every visitor to Kyoto visits Ginkaku-ji Temple (Silver Pavilion) and strolls down the Path of Philosophy. But very few explore the rich sightseeing attractions just off the main walking path, and there are so many. There are a few connected roji here that are really fun to stroll through. Most of the roji are in the area parallel to the shopping street leading up to the temple. Just follow your curiosity and you will soon be on the narrowest of lanes.
Another great back street section leads from Ginkaku-ji to Honen-in and from there back to the Path of Philosophy. To take this section face the entrance to Ginkaku-ji and turn right. Then follow that narrow street along to Honen-in (basically straight, then turn right at the bamboo forest, and then left again). Honen-in is one of the finest temple experiences in Kyoto, and it is hardly ever crowded.
After Honen-in, continue along same street. Go straight until you have to turn left. Walk up hill past some old, traditional, expensive homes, and then turn right and walk past the main building of Notre Dame High School. On your right you will see a path that leads down next to the school's sports field: follow it. Continue walking downhill until you come to the canal and then head south to Eikan-do Temple and Nanzen-ji Temple. You can't really get lost: the mountains will always be on your left. Try to take as many little back streets and paths as you can. Explore this area: there is so much to see!
Ishibei Koji
One really great roji is Ishibei-koji, near Kodai-ji Temple, an area many tourists walk past coming from Maruyama Park or Kiyomizu Temple. Ishibei means stone wall, and when you enter the lane you will immediately notice that all the wall foundations are made of stone. Ryotei (first class Japanese restaurants) and ryokan inns line both sides of this lane and it really comes to life in the evening. It has been a popular night time spot for real Kyoto fans. Though it is highly recommended destination to feel Kyoto's historical air, many people miss to go through this mysterious lane as the entrance is too small. When you walk through the Ishibei koji, after going zigzag narrow lane, you can face to Kodai-ji Temple area.
Pontocho
Another super roji area is along and off Pontocho. This lane, which also extends a bit south of Shijo, is so narrow that two geiko (geisha) could not pass each other with their umbrellas open. Branching off to the west of the lane are roji that are so narrow and dark, that many fear to treed. On the central section of the main lane, on April 27, 1978, a fire broke out in the early morning hours that quickly destroyed several old wooden teahouses. However, when the blaze reached roji #15, it suddenly stopped. Mysteriously, the fire went out just after it had engulfed a ceramic tanuki badger statue that stood in the alleyway. In honor of their savior, the residents of the surrounding area built a shrine. If you toss a coin into the offering box, a tanuki oracle will repay you with wise words (5 different messages): Don't vacillate. Be patient and work hard. Good fortune comes to those who smile.
Shinmonzen
There is also an excellent roji that runs south of Shinmonzen parallel to the Shirakawa River. Walk along it at night: go into one of the restaurants if you think you can afford it. For a warren of roji that will leave you dizzy, look for the first one on your left as you walk south of Sanjo along the east side of the Shirakawa River. You can really feel the distant past in this slowly decaying narrow world.
2008 August
Published on the 1st
of every month.
The 223th issue, since 1987.