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TOFU
The white magic of soy beans
Soft, shiny white cubes. Very simple yet full of nutrition. That's tofu. Japanese tofu is one Japan's most important foods. It is good for you and hard to get fat on. It has a lot of protein but few calories. Due to its nutritional properties, the popularity of tofu has grown steadily around the world. And for the rapidly increasing number of Westerners who find that a meatless or vegetarian diet makes good sense, tofu serves as a key source of protein.
In Japan today, you can find tofu everywhere and in all forms: tofu steaks, tofu hamburgers, tofu ice cream and even tofu cakes. No matter if you are rich or poor, a man or a woman, young or old, everyone loves tofu. Experience the world of tofu in the Old Capital.
The Arrival of Tofu in Japan
There are several theories on how tofu was first brought to Japan. The most popular theory is that tofu arrived in Japan between late Nara period (710-794) and the early Heian period (794-1185) in the company of Japanese monks and scholars who were returning from studying all forms of Chinese culture. In those days, China's Tang dynasty formed the cultural center of Asia.
However, few historical records from the Nara or Heian period mention tofu. The oldest historical record about tofu was discovered in a book written in the late Heian period by the head shrine priest of Nara's Kasuga Grand Shrine.
Until the middle of the Edo period (1600-1868) tofu was a luxury and available only to the imperial family and high ranking Buddhist and Shrine priests. For the common people, tofu (and white rice and even sake) ,were only available for special occasions such as festivals, New Year's and weddings. The first three shoguns of the Edo period strictly regulated tofu production for their personal needs.
Tofu in Shojin Zen Vegetarian Cuisine
While the common people couldn't eat tofu whenever they wanted to, tofu was an important part of a Zen monk's diet. Cuisine eaten in Zen temples is called shojin ryori.
Because Zen monks don't eat any animal products, tofu was, and still is, an important source of protein. It is based on the Buddhist philosophy that one must not kill or eat other animals. Therefore shojin ryori cuisine uses no meat or seafood. Instead the main ingredients are miso (fermented soy bean paste), tofu, yuba (tofu skin), mushrooms and root vegetables like burdocks and radish. Ninety percent of the recipes in a shojin ryori book published in the Edo period included tofu (actually a firmer kind of tofu known as Koya-dofu; basically dehydrated tofu and thus easy to preserve).
A best seller about tofu called ''Tofu Hyakuchin'' (100 Unique Tofu Recipes) published in 1782 reveals that tofu by that time was boiled, steamed, simmered, grilled, deep-fried, and fried. Most likely people in those times knew more about how to prepare tofu than we do today as meat and seafood were basically taboo for everyone until the end of the 19th century.
Key Tofu Ingredients:
Water, soy beans and nigari
Tofu has only three ingredients: soy beans, water and nigari (bittern/a coagulant). All of these are essential but water is the most important of the three. People even say ''Water is vital for tofu.'' Indeed, 80-90% of tofu is water. The water used to make tofu must be pure of certain ingredients. Kyoto's natural wells are blessed with water that is perfectly suited to tofu and Kyoto tofu is probably the most famous in all of Japan.
Scientifically, Kyoto's ground water is referred to as soft water (water that contains low amounts of calcium and magnesium). If hard water (the kind of water common throughout Europe) is used for making tofu, the calcium in the water and the protein in soy beans combine and it is impossible to get a smooth texture.
The other important ingredient of tofu is nigari or bittern. Nigari is a natural coagulant produced from sea water. It is used to coagulate soy milk to form tofu.
Types of Tofu
There are many kinds of tofu but the two most common types are: momen and kinu. Momen means cotton and kinu means silk in Japanese. Cotton cloth is actually used in the production of momen tofu.
For both of these kinds of tofu the initial production method is the same. First, soy beans are soaked in water for about half a day depending on the season (less in summer and more in winter). When the beans get soft, they are grated and more water is added. At this stage the mixture is known as go. Then the go is strained and separated into soy milk and curd.
When the soy milk is ready, nigari is added to coagulate it. Then, the soy milk and nigari mixture is poured into a square metal container though other shapes are also used (wooden containers were commonly used until the early 20th century).
When making momen tofu, a cotton cloth is wrapped around the tofu. A weight is put on top to drain off excess water. The weave of the cotton cloth remains on its surface and thus the name momen tofu. Momen tofu has an uneven surface and a relatively rough texture and is best suited for grilling, frying or deep-frying.
Kinu tofu, on the other hand, requires no cloth and excess water is not drained off. Therefore kinu tofu has a softer, smoother texture. Moreover, the soy milk for kinu tofu is generally more concentrated. Kinu tofu is best eaten chilled or boiled.
Momen
A pattern of momen (cotton) cloth faintly left on the surface of tofu. This type of tofu suits to be cooked in broth as tofu absorb the moisture and the taste.
Kinu
Shiny and smooth surface and extraordinary soft texture. As the name represents, it is like edible ''silk''.
Oboro (Yose)
Oboro means dim or hazy.
Goma
Using sesame (goma) as a main ingredients instead of soy beans, this type of tofu has rich aroma and taste of sesame.
By-products of Tofu
While tofu is well known by-products such as yuba (silky sweet soymilk skin) and okara (coarse soy pulp) are less recognized. Yuba is the soft, warm film that covers the surface when thick soymilk is gently heated. It is skimmed off the top in sheets with long sticks and then rolled and dried for use in soups, stocks and other dishes. Dried, yuba turns beige and has a crisp texture until it is reconstituted and becomes soft. It is also sometimes served as nama-yuba, freshly skimmed and served with soy sauce or a dressing. Most of the remaining yuba shops are located in Kyoto.
After soybeans have been ground, the smooth puree is spooned into boiling water, returned to the boil, and simmered. This is then ladled into a sturdy, coarsely-woven cloth sack and soymilk is drained out. What's left in the sack is okara, crumbly, with a fine-grained texture, it is used to give body to sauteed vegetable dishes, soups, casseroles, breads, and salads. Okara's greatest nutritional asset is its dietary fiber, now considered to be an essential part of every well-balanced diet.
An interview with head of Kyoto's Hiranoya
''I want to make tofu that is so good that you want to eat another bite.''
A local tofu shop with 100-year old history
Hiranoya is a small shop located in downtown Kyoto in an area full of first class ryokan inns, time-honored shops and old merchant residences. For more than 100 years, the shop's red sign mark, the first kanji letter in the founding family name, has stood here. The present shop owner, Mr. Yoshiaki Hirano, is the third generation owner. His grandfather started Hiranoya in 1906.
Mr. Hirano didn't plan to take over his family business when he was younger. For a long time, he worked for one of Japan's largest car manufacturers. However, his life suddenly changed 27 years ago and he decided to take over the family business.
''Since I was little, I always watched my father and grandfather make tofu, so I knew everything about the basic production process'', Hirano says. ''When I told my wife I would quit the company and take over the tofu shop, she was really surprised and upset. When we got married, I promised her there was no way that she would ever be the wife of a tofu shop owner. I broke that promise.''
Creating consistent high quality tofu
According to Hirano, ''My previous work before taking over this business was in a large car factory automatically controlled by machines. Now everything I do is by hand in this small space. It is a totally different work experience! However, no matter if I make a car or tofu, I feel that I am creating something...''
Even though he was familiar with making tofu, it was difficult to make the same high quality tofu every day. Many customers were used to the tofu flavor created by Hirano's father and grandfather. ''It was much harder than I expected to satisfy old customers'', Hirano recalls.
Traditional way of making tofu
Hirano's day begins at 3:00 a.m. when begins to prepare soy beans to make the tofu for the day. First he grates the beans which he has previously soaked in fresh ground water. The beans swell and gets soft after about 6 hours soaking (longer in winter). When the beans are grated and mixed with more water the mixture resembles thick cream and in this state it is called nuta. When the nuta is ready, it is heated to 100 degrees centigrade to reduce the soy bean smell. Then the mixture is separated into soy milk and okara (bean curd) with a strainer.
The next step is the most difficult and the most important according to Hirano: adding nigari to the soy milk. If the balance is not just right, the texture and softness of the resultant tofu will be different.
Metal boxes to form tofu. The box on the left is a Kyo-bako (Kyoto style box) and the one on the right is an Osaka-bako (Osaka style box). Kyo-bako are deeper. Osaka-bako are shallower and wider.
Pursuing tasty tofu
Hiranoya is a trusted small local tofu shop with all kinds of customers: a housewife buying fresh tofu for dinner, someone from a nearby Japanese restaurant draws water from the well, a neighbor stops by to get a bottle of fresh soy milk. This has been going on for 100 years...
What is good tofu for Hirano? He answers, ''First the texture in the mouth is really important. Then, when first chewed, it must release a faint sweetness. As you know, tofu doesn't have a strong flavor. However, I want to make tofu that is so good that you want to eat another bite.''
Hiranoya: Open: 9:30-19:00, closed Sun.; on the north side of Aneyakoji, west of Fuyacho; Tel: 075-221-1646.
Hiyayakko Chilled Tofu!
Simple, easy and tasty!
Hiyayakko is a popular Japanese summer dish made with chilled tofu and a simple garnish. Soft, chilled tofu is the perfect dish for Japan's hot summer days when many people lose their appetite. Instead of adding too much soy sauce, which will mask the delicate flavor of the tofu, choose one or two garnishes and enjoy the taste of the tofu itself. Here are some typical garnishes.
Negi (green onions)
Shredded green onion (negi) is one of the most popular garnishes for chilled tofu. Said to be good for the blood.
Shoga (ginger)
Another typical garnish for chilled tofu. Ginger is good for the sweat glands and appetite stimulation. It also can act to kill bacteria.
Shiso (Japanese basil)
Shiso Japanese basil has a rich scent and flavor. Shiso leaves contains a lot of vitamin A and C.
Katsuo-bushi (bonito flakes)
This is the most popular and standard garnish for chilled tofu. Bonito flakes are said to stimulate the appetite.
Ume-boshi (pickled plum)
Ume-boshi are salty pickled plums and are very good for your digestion. The seed is removed and often the plum is turned into a thick paste.
Mayonnaise
Another tasty garnish can be made by mixing mayonnaise and soy sauce.
Shoyu
Shoyu is a soy sauce, the most well-known Japanese condiment. It is a dark brown liquid made from soy beans that have undergone a fermentation process.
Ponzu
Ponzu is a citrus-based soy sauce commonly. Ponzu is traditionally used as a dressing for sashimi, a dip for hotpot dishes and tofu.
Dashi shoyu
Dashi shoyu is one of the most fundamental ingredients for many Japanese recipes such as dipping sauces for soba noodle, tempura, soups, simmered dishes and salad dressings.
Recommended Places to Enjoy Tofu
Kyo no Yuki
Kyo no Yuki is located on the narrow lane of Pontocho, one of Kyoto's maiko & geiko districts. The name of the shop, Kyo no Yuki means ''Snow of Kyoto'' and their silky tofu is almost pure white. They produce traditional tofu and other soy bean products (yuba, deep-fried tofu, etc.) using Japanese soy beans and natural Kyoto spring water.
Kyoto no Yuki tofu is distributed to about 60 locations every day. Their clients include: supermarkets, department stores, hotels, ryokans, restaurants and temples throughout Kyoto. They deliver directly every single day. There is no one between them and their clients. The tofu business is an every-single-day kind of business.
There is a restaurant, Tofu-jaya, next to the tofu shop where you can enjoy fresh tofu and yuba (soy milk skin). They opened the restaurant as part of their deep desire to promote the three major cultures of Kyoto - food, lifestyle, and entertainment - through tofu cuisine. Tofu-jaya is a small restaurant. It only has 21 seats, but in that intimacy you can enjoy the beauty of a traditional Kyoto interior, and a totally new approach to tofu cuisine. Course menus using tofu, a la carte menus and even desserts made from tofu are available.
Lunch sets from 1,890 yen, dinner courses from: 4,725 yen; Open: 11:30-14:00 (L.O.), 17:00-21:00 (L.O. 20:30); Closed: Tues.; on the west side of Pontocho, south of Sanjo; Tel: 075-212-7705.
Kamishichiken Kurosuke
Kamishichiken Kurosuke's 120-year-old building used to be an ochaya (a house where maiko or apprentice geiko lived). The furniture and interior decorations are the same as those used in the Kyoto's elegant geiko worlds. The cuisine is centered around tofu and elegantly presented.
Lunch courses from 3,150 yen, dinner courses from: 6,300 yen; Open: 11:30-14:30 (L.O.), 17:00-21:30 (L.O.); Closed: Tues.; east of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, across from Kamishichiken Kaburenjo Theatre; Tel: 075-466-4889; http://www.kurochiku.co.jp
Tousuiro Kiyamachi Main Shop
The building is classically Japanese and sits on a back lane running off of Kiyamachi, facing the Kamo River. Their oboro tofu using 100% top quality Japanese soy beans is very popular. All the dishes served in their courses include top-quality tofu and seasonal ingredients. During the summer, yuka open-air riverside seating is available.
Higashiyama course: 3,858 yen, Miyabi course: 5,512 yen; Open: 11:30-14:00, 17:00-21:30, Sun.: 12:00-20:30; on the east of Kiyamachi, south of Oike; Tel: 075-251-1600; http://www.tousuiro.com/ *the photo is an image.