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Kyoto Winter Pleasures
Onsen hot spas & nabe hot-pot cuisine
For the visitor, no trip to Japan in winter would be complete without experiencing a Japanese onsen hot spa and nabe hot-pot cuisine! Kyoto is well-known for its cold, damp winters though heavy snow is not common. But winter is not without its pleasures. Kyoto area onsen hot springs and nabe cuisine are two traditional options for getting warm and having fun. This month, KVG introduces a wide variety of places in Kyoto City and Kyoto Prefecture where you can enjoy these options. Have fun!
Onsen Hot Spas
Onsen hot spa Ukawa Onsen Yoshino no Sato
Taking a hot bath is a time honored Japanese tradition. Whether at home, at a sento (public bathhouse), or at a hot spring spa (onsen), the Japanese love to soak the hours away...
Natural hot springs can be found all over Japan and have long been a popular holiday destination.There are many types of hot springs, distinguished by the mineral content of their water. Different minerals provide different health benefits. But most of all soaking in hot water is sure to relax your body and mind.
The ultimate hot spring experience is a night or two at an onsen ryokan, a Japanese style inn with hot spring baths. A typical onsen ryokan visit starts with a bath before dinner. Then a beautifully arranged Japanese-style dinner, featuring local specialties, is served in your room. Many guests take another bath before sleeping and one before breakfast.
If staying the night is out of your price range, no worries: many onsen offer reasonably priced day-trip plans that include lunch and bathing).
Bathing Etiquette & Tips
1) Take off your clothes in the changing room and place them into a basket together with your towel. Lockers are nearly always provided for valuables.
2) Japanese hot springs are enjoyed naked (with men and women in separate areas). Swimming suits are not allowed. However, many people bring a small towel into the bathing area for scrubbing and for privacy when walking around. When you enter the bath, be sure to keep the towel out of the water.
3) Before entering the bath, rinse your body with water from the taps (mix the hot and cold to suit your temperature preferences) or with water from one of the bathing pools; you will find wooden buckets or plastic washing bowls throughout the bathing area.
4) Enter the bath and soak for a while. Note that the bath water can sometimes be quite hot (typical temperatures are 40 to 44 degrees).
5) After your initial soak, get out of the bath and thoroughly wash yourself from head to toe at one of the water tap stations (you can sit on the floor or use a stool). Be sure to tidy up your area after you finished cleaning.
6) Now return to the baths and soak away!
Nabe Hot-pot Cuisine
Nabe Hot-pot Cuisine Ohara no Sato
Nabe or nabe-mono cuisine is a hearty way to warm up in winter Everything is prepared right at your table which means that you are the cook and the guest, which is especially fun for groups of friends or people who want to get to know each other better. When your nabe meal begins, you will notice a big pot (nabe) on your table, set over a gas burner. Then, a fairly large tray of ingredients will appear at your table: fresh fish, shrimp, meats, different kinds of green vegetables and carrots, tofu, and mushrooms... The variety of ingredients depends on the type of nabe style (see below for types of nabe cuisine).
When the water starts to boil, put in the hardest things first, the things that take the longest to cook, and then, a bit later, add the more delicate stuff. Remember, to check what is happening in the pot. The key is not to overcook anything: the vegetables should still be firm when ready not soft and mushy!
Popular Japanese Nabe Dishes
1) Mizutaki: Chicken and other ingredients are simply simmered in dashi soup (usually made with strips of kombu or sea kelp). Transfer the cooked ingredients to the small bowls provided and then dip them in ponzu sauce (soy sauce mixed with citrus juice) before eating.
2) Yudofu: This is one of Kyoto's most famous winter dishes. Simmer sea kelp in plenty of water in the large ceramic pot and then lightly boil the soft tofu cubes provided. Dip the cooked tofu in a sauce (or the broth) before eating. The tofu used for yudofu is very soft and hard to pick up with chopsticks. Many foreigners ask for a spoon.
3) Oden: This popular Japanese winter includes ingredients such as boiled eggs, daikon radish, konnyaku (a jelly-like food made from konnyaku plant roots), tofu, and processed fish cakes which are all stewed in a light, soy-flavored dashi broth.
4) Shabushabu: Thinly sliced tender beef and other ingredients are cooked in a large pot. The beef is so thin that it is ready after briefly swishing it around in the pot with your chopsticks. It's said that the name, shabu shabu, comes from this swishing action.
5) Chanko-nabe: A type of nabe dish commonly eaten in vast quantities by sumo wrestlers to put on weight. It is made with a dashi or chicken broth soup base containing sake or mirin (sweet rice wine). The ingredients include chicken, seafood, tofu and vegetables.
Japan's Nostalgic Ohara Village
Ohara is a rural town nestled in the mountains of northern Kyoto, about one hour from Kyoto Station. Ohara's most famous attraction is Sanzen-in Temple, set in a forested area at the foot of the hills on the east side of the village. It is a large temple with a variety of buildings and gardens, and was established in the early Heian Period (794-1185) by the great monk Saicho, who founded the Tendai sect of Buddhism. The path from the town to the temple is lined with numerous small shops.
There are also a few attractions on the hillside on the opposite side of the valley. Jakko-in Temple, another temple of the Tendai sect, is the area's main attraction. This is a nunnery located up the stone path in the opposite direction of the Sanzen-in Temple from Ohara bus terminal. Through the gates you will find the beautiful garden and structures of the main temple and study.
Ohara is also known for Oharame, female peddlers who used to carry brushwood, firewood and flowers on their heads along the streets of Kyoto. They wear a towel on their ornately arranged hair, an indigo blue kimono, an obi sash, an apron, white hand covers and gaiters on their legs. Already in the 12th century the unique clothing of the Oharame attracted the attention of Kyoto citizens, just as it continues to today.
Ohara no Sato
Ohara no Sato is a traditional Japanese-style ryokan located in Ohara that serves fine Kyoto cuisine and offers excellent bathing. The guest rooms are all Japanese style with lovely garden views. Their specialty is delicious miso-nabe hot pot prepared with home-made miso (salty fermented soy bean paste).
Ohara no Sato has indoor and outdoor bathing areas (men and women separate). The hot water used in the baths comes from an underground spring and has a reputation for being very good for the skin. The open-air bath faces a forested area planted with maple and cherry trees. Since Ohara is considerably colder than central Kyoto, snow is common in winter. Soaking in a hot bath surrounded by snow is an unforgettable experience.
Access to Ohara: Take Kyoto Bus #17 or #18 from Kyoto Station to Ohara (60 minutes) via Shijo Kawaramachi and Sanjo Keihan.
Other Hot Spas in Kyoto
Funaoka Onsen
This is oldest onsen in Kyoto (established in 1923) but it functions more like a public community bath. It has a number of exquisite ranma (panels of Japanese wood carving) which partition the change rooms, and both indoor and outdoor bathing areas. Entry: 410 yen; Open 15:00-1:00 (from 8:00 on Sun. & holidays); located south of Funaokayama Park; Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Senbon Kuramaguchi or Daitokuji-mae; Tel: 075-441-3735.
Kurama Onsen
This popular spa, set on a forested, mountain slope at the north end of the narrow Kurama valley, is only 30-minutes by train from Kyoto. Entry: 1,000 yen (open-air bath only) or 2,500 yen (for both the open-air bath and the in-door bathing areas); access via Eizan Railway Demachiyanagi Stn.; there is a shuttle bus to the spa from Kurama Stn. (end of the line) or you can simply walk up to the north end of the village (a 10-min walk); Open 10:00-21:00; Tel: 075-741-2131; www.kurama-onsen.co.jp/
Randen Arashiyama Station Footbath
If you don't have much time to stop at onsen places, then try a quick footbath in Arashiyama. On the platform of the Randen Arashiyama Stn., there is a traditionally decorated area where you can soak your feet in hot natural spring water. Entry: 150 yen (towel provided); Open: 9:00-20:00; Tel: 075-873-2121.
Onsen & Local Nabe Cusine in Kyoto Prefecture
Kameoka City
Kameoka City is located about 20 km west of Kyoto City. Like many smaller cities in Japan, Kameoka has largely managed to preserve its special sense of heritage. Many temples and shrines from Kameoka's long history remain in excellent condition in their beautiful and natural surroundings, attracting many visitors. After the imperial capital was established in Kyoto in 794, Kameoka served as a key transport hub for lumber shipments, and as an important link between Kyoto and the northwestern Sanin region.
Access: Kameoka is about 30 min. train ride from JR Kyoto Stn. (on the San-in line); Tel: 0771-22-0691 (Kameoka City Tourism Association); http://www.kameoka.info/
Yunohana Onsen
There are many onsen ryokan (Japanese style inns) in the Yu-no-hana Onsen area (a little south of Kameoka). Some places offer day trip plans. *Note: rates and opening hours vary. Tel: 0771-22-5645 (Yunohana Onsen Tourism Association); http://www.yunohana-onsen.com/
Botan-nabe Hot Pot
Botan-nabe, a popular Kyoto winter dish, is made with the dark red meat of the Japanese wild boar (inoshishi). The meat slices are arranged on a plate in such a way that they look like a large peony flower (botan). Botan-nabe also contains lots of vegetables and is flavored with miso, a salty paste made of fermented soy beans. Botan-nabe is in season until the end of February at some ryokan inns and restaurants in Kameoka. Inquire in advance as reservations are often necessary.
Kyotango City
Kyotango City is located on the Tango Peninsula, on the northwestern edge of Kyoto Prefecture facing the Japan Sea. The area is known for its rugged coastline, beaches and stunning scenery. In winter, many tourists come to this area to enjoy crab cuisine and bathing.
Access to Kyotango City: Take the Limited Express train from JR Kyoto Stn. to Fukuchiyama Stn. (about 90 min.) and then the KTR Miyazu line to Miyazu or Amanohashidate Stn.; Tel: 0772-62-6300 (Kyotango City Tourism Association); http://www.kyotango.co.jp/
Ukawa Onsen
Ukawa is located on the northern tip of the Tango Peninsula. The local Yoshino no Sato onsen and resort is set on a hill overlooking the sea. The restaurant serves country dishes and traditional Japanese cuisine using the finest local ingredients including fresh seafood and vegetables from the resort's garden.
Kani-suki Hotpot
The matsuba-gani crabs native to the Tango Peninsula are the finest in Japan. They can only be caught at night in the winter months (November to March). The ships leave around midnight and return to the port at dawn. Kani-suki crab hot pot is a local specialty and is served in many of the area's ryokan inns.
Ukawa Onsen Yoshino no Sato
Open: 11:00-21:00; Closed: Thurs.; 600 yen for bathing only; 10,000 yen-14,500 yen/person for overnight stay (with dinner & breakfast); Access: From JR Amino Stn., take a Tango Kairiku Kotsu Bus bound for Kyogamisaki, get off at Kyuso; a free shuttle bus service from Mineyama Stn. is available (reservation required); Tel: 0772-76-1000; http://www.ukawaonsen.jp/
Miyazu City
Amano Hashidate, one of the three most beautiful places in Japan, is located in Miyazu City. This legendary land bridge, said to have been formed by two of Shinto's most powerful deities as a way to get to heaven, is 3.6 kilometers long and covered with 8,000 graceful pine trees. Its white sand beaches are very popular in summer. The area is also popular for its rich natural environment and ancient historical heritage sites.
Access to Miyazu City: Take the Limited Express train from JR Kyoto Stn. to Fukuchiyama Stn. (about 90 min.) and then take the KTR Miyazu line to Miyazu or Amanohashidate Stn.; Tel: 0772-22-8030 (Amanohashidate Tourism Association); http://www.amanohashidate.jp/
Amanohashidate Onsen
There are several onsen spa places in Miyazu's Amanohashidate area. One of them is Chieno Yu, located near KTR Amanohashidate Stn.. It has indoor and outdoor bathing areas, and a hinoki (Japanese cypress) bath. Open: 14:00-21:00 (open from 12:00 on Sat., Sun., national holidays); Closed: Wed.; 700 yen; Tel: 0772-22-1515; http://www.viewland.jp/
Buri-shabu
Buri-shabu is like shabu-shabu but instead of beef buri (yellow tail fish) is used. The Japan Sea along the north coast of Kyoto Prefecture yields some of the finest buri in Japan (considered to be the most tasty in the winter months). The soup broth in the pot is made by boiling kelp with a fair bit of Japanese sake. A number of ryokan inns and restaurants in Miyazu City serve buri-shabu made with freshly caught buri.
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