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Dress in a Kimono!
The layered history and culture of Japanese clothing



The kimono is something that nearly every visitor to Japan expects to see during their travels (especially in Kyoto). In reality, you have to be quite lucky or know where to look. But you can also put on and pose in an elaborate kimono or buy one to bring home. Kimono are not so difficult to put on (if you have been give a few simple tips by an expert) and they can be very inexpensive but beautiful and original all the same. Just looking is breathtaking, but this can be an unforgettable memory of your time in Japan. Here are a few facts about Japanese clothing culture that you might not know…


The History of the Kimono
 From simple to sophisticated


Originally, the word ''kimono'' simply meant clothing in Japanese. The word has only been used to refer to what we think a kimono is for a hundred years or so. The basic shape of the modern-day kimono developed in the Heian period (794-1185) when a new kimono-making technique called t he straight-line cut method was invented.


To make this kind of kimono the fabric was cut in straight, regular stripes and then sewn together (later the fabric would be woven in bolts that were the same width: about 45 cm). One of the brilliant advantages of the straight-line cut method was that the designer did not really have to think about the shape of the wearer's body.


These new kinds of robes were also easy to fold. They could be worn in layer to provide warmth in the winter. And they could be fashioned out of breathable fabrics (especially linen) so as to be very comfortable during Japan's hot summers.


In the Heian period it quickly became the fashion to wear kimono in layers. The most elaborate versions worn by the imperial family had 12 different layers! Obviously putting something like this on and or taking it off tool a long time.


Over t he course of the Heian period, as the kimono became more and more popular, the Japanese began to develop a heightened sensitivity to different color combinations. Colors and color combinations were used to suggest seasonal themes and to define class and rank. Today, the Japanese are without a doubt, the most color sensitive in t he world and much of this has to do with the influence of the kimono weavers and designers over the centuries.


In the Kamakura period (1192-1338) and Muromachi period (1338-1573), when the samurai and Zen were very much center stage in Japanese culture, brightly colored kimono were the most common. Warriors wore the colors of their clan. Paintings showing large battels from this time, when viewed today, looked a lot like fashion shows.


During the peaceful and prosperous Edo period (1600-1868), Japanese society was highly regulated by the ruling class: the Tokugawa shoguns based in what is present-day Tokyo (or Edo as it was called until the end of the 19th century). Everything from the length of the sleeves and decoration to colors and accessories was strictly defined and production reached its highest level of the Edo period. Kimono became valuable and it became common for them to be handed from generation to generation as family heirlooms.


Beginning in the Meiji period (1868-1912), Western clothing entered Japan. For a while it was the law that Western clothing was worn by government and military officials on formal occasions. For those who were not working for the government or the military it became the law that one's family crest had to be on the back and from of t he kimono in a certain place. The crest gave information about the family and its background. This information was used to great advantage in social situations.


Today the kimono has almost vanished in daily Japanese life. What's more the kimono is now thought of as something a woman wears. Women who wear kimono regularly are usually intimately involved with the worlds of the tea ceremony or flower arrangement. The few men who still wear kimono are most often traditional artists. For everyone else, which is to say for the other women, the kimono is something that marks certain rites of passage: the coming-of-age ceremony, weddings.



The dominance of Western clothing is not the daily life. One of the biggest disadvantage of a kimono is the cost. A nice silk kimono costs almost $10,000 dollars. For that reason, businesses also thrive because putting on a kimono without help is almost impossible for the modern Japanese women. Though the kimono has largely vanished from daily life it lives on in Japanese culture in many ways. And as you will quickly notice the Japanese passion for fashion is rivaled by few cultures.


Kimono Clothing Old & New
An industry caught in time


An enduring and potent symbol of traditional Japan, the kimono is caught in time. Caught somewhere between being an out and out artifact and as yet necessary stage prop or costume for 'rare' occasions. Until the World War 2, well over 90% of Japanese women wore kimono on a daily basis. Today, you might say the kimono is history for most women.



Depending on age and generation, a woman may wear a kimono anywhere from once a year to a few times a year. Designed, dyed and woven with care, and made of silk (and fine cottons), a finished kimono is at once a uniquely personal item. A piece of craftsmanship and sophisticated beauty that in some way or another involved many people working in an age old tradition. Yet for all that they are not used more than a few times. The rest of the time they hang in the shadows of closets or folded up in boxes or drawers. Though indispensable to Japanese women, once or twice a year, as a tuxedo might be in the west, they are expensive possessions. A good kimono starts from around 200,000 yen. Not surprising, in recent years kimono rental has become the preference among practical, modern young women.


Kyoto's Muromachi area has been Japan's premier kimono-related design and wholesale area since the 16th and 17th century. However, during the last century, Muromachi has had to increasingly adapt to the growing popularity of Western clothing. Long gone are the days when kimono and obi sales networks extended throughout the land in an empire of shops and door to door services.





Today, a full 40% of the Muromachi area's revenue is related to Western clothing. Accessories such a bags, jewelry and other high quality design items make up a considerable portion of the remaining 60%. Attempts to revitalize the traditional kimono industry by creating modern fashion designs based on traditional materials and designs have largely failed. The cost alone for daily clothing made with new kimono quality fabric prevents the industry from making a total transformation.


Export potential, since the mid 80s steep rise in the yen, has also vanished for such products. Overall, the future of the traditional high-quality kimono industry is haunted with a sense of darkening uncertainty as times change and people with them. And yet, here and there the lights remain on, as the passions of individuals and old traditional ways of life fuel the continued existence and the possible transformation and resurgence of things that are great and should never be lost. A handful of designers have carved out a niche for themselves in the ethnic clothing market and who have tried to remain faithful to the past in the present.


MIMURO
Kimono everything under one roof




Whether you love kimono and already know a lot about their world or know nothing at all Mimuro is the place. Mimuro's five story building has over 50,000 items: kimono (old and new) and every imaginable kind of accessory for dressing up. No matter which season you visit, they offer everything for every season; cotton yukata (casual summer kimono), elegant black kimono with classic Japanese motifs, gorgeous and colorful furisode (long sleeve kimono), etc.





All the staff members working at Mimuro are kimono professionals. Some speak perfect English so no worries if you have questions. Based on their experience, they know what foreigners want and they will teach you how to wear a kimono and tie the obi sash. Quality kimono and service makes Mimuro an outstanding source for all your kimono needs.


Open: 10:00-18:30; English spoken; Access: a 5-min. walk southwest of Shijo subway station; on the north side of Matsubara, east of Muromachi; Tel: 075-344-1220; www.mimuro.net


Sugoroku Kukan SEISYODO
World of timeless beauty


Though it is not located in downtown or near famous tourist sites, people come to find Seisyodo, simply because they worth it. In a small classic Japanese house, you will be surrounded by all kinds of Japanese antique goods from different time of periods.



In Seisyodo, it seems like they are a boutique of antique kimono. Colorful kimono are set in a rack all over the wall, classified by period of production or material. Each kimono has story and Seisyodo's staff will tell you about it.


Not only kimono but don't forget to look at their hundred kinds of accessories and antiques: textiles, potteries, calligraphies, hair accessories, etc. Even you didn't mean to, the time naturally passes while you enjoy looking at what Seisyodo offers and enjoy talking to their staffs about kimono, Japanese antique, and culture.



Open: 11:00 till late, closed 15th, 21st, 25th every month; English & French spoken; Access: 1-min. walk to the east from Eizan Chayama Stn.; Tel: 075-724-0137; www.seisyodo.jp/


DEN DEN
Get dressed in kimono and go out!


If you feel like trying kimono, but give up buying a set of kimono for the reason you don't want to add extra things to your baggage back home, visit Den Den! At Den Den you can rent all you need to get dressed in kimono and enjoy strolling in the city whole day.



Den Den's shop is a classic Japanese style, hundred of colorful kimono are hung and you can choose your favorite one. Once you find what you like, their staff will dress you in kimono, explaining about kimono, material, color, etc.


Recommended plans: Sakura Plan (3,900 yen): reasonable set of kimono. Tsubaki Plan (5,900 yen): formal and elegant silk kimono. Kimono for men is also available (4,900 yen). Renting a set of kimono overnight is also available (extra 1,500 yen; a staff will come to collect the kimono to your accommodation in the city).



Open: 10:30-19:00, closed Wed.; Access: a short walk to the west of Kinkaku-ji Temple, on the west side of Nishioji; Tel: 075-461-5921; http://kimono.denden-kyoto.com/


YUZUIRO
Lovely antique kimono, original accessories and antiques


At Yuzuiro, you will find yourself in a fancy, pretty world of kimono and a very interesting range of original accessories that are perfect examples of Japanese mood and design. Their friendly staff welcomes you with a smile and tells you the stories behind the things they are selling.



Yuzuiro is especially good value for their reasonably priced kimono sets! These clothing items and accessories can easily be adapted to your fashion and interior decoration preferences and needs. Their bags, hair accessories, brooches using kimono textiles are all hand-made and original.


Recently they opened another small shop specializing in antique ceramics, furniture, art, etc. The new shop is a one-minute walk east from their main shop. Visit both of Yuzuiro's shops and look for something special for yourself or a dear friend.



Open: 11:00-19:00; Access: a 5-min. walk to the west from subway Keage Stn., across from Westin Miyako Hotel; Tel: 075-761-1688; http://yuzuiro.jp/