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Winding through Arashiyama and Sagano
Tranquil winter walking at its very best
This month KVG invites you to stroll through the wonderful Arashiyama-Sagano district in Western Kyoto, an area of stunning beauty that was favoured by the noble classes 1,200 years ago. Today, Arashiyama is considered to be Kyoto's second most-popular tourist destination. It is especially wonderful when the maples color the area bright red (until about mid-December). This area is best explored on foot because there is something to see everywhere along the way, including wonderfully lush temple and shrine compounds, old private villas, and narrow streets lined with craft and souvenir shops.
Getting to Arashimaya
From Kyoto Stn.: Take Kyoto City bus #28 or Kyoto Bus #71, #72, #73, or take the JR Sagano Line to Saga Arashiyama Stn. From downtown: Take Kyoto City Bus #28 or #11 (#11 also can be caught from Shijo Kawaramachi), or take the Keifuku Arashiyama Line to Arashiyama Stn. (from Shijo Omiya Stn.).
Start this walk from Randen (Keifuku) Arashiyama Stn. The station is an attraction in itself. There are a number of shops selling traditional sweets and beverages as well as plenty of places to sit down and relax. If you are cold or weary, then the station's lovely open-air natural hot spring footbath is sure to soothe (entry is 150 yen, including towel; buy your ticket on the left side of the entry gates; open: 9:00-20:00; Tel: 075-873-2121; www.arashiyama-hanahoko.jp).
After leaving the station, cross the street and enter the vast grounds of the Tenryu-ji Temple complex. Tenryu-ji Temple (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), head temple of the Tenryu-ji Rinzai Zen sect, was built in 1339 by Takauji Ashikaga (1305-1358), the first Ashikaga shogun. At its peak, Tenryu-ji Temple ranked as the largest Zen monastery in western Japan, with 120 sub-temples. The temple's exquisite pond garden dates back to the Heian period (794-1185). The current layout of the garden is the work of Muso Soseki (1275-1351), one of the most respected Zen monks of the 14th century.
After seeing the main buildings of the temple and passing through the garden you will come to the northern gate of the complex and enter Arashiyama's famous bamboo forest. The play of light and shadow along this serene 200-meter path is a wonder to behold.
First, turn left and follow the path uphill until you come to a T-intersection. Look to your right and you will see a narrow road leading uphill. This is the entry point to the two-hectare former estate of Denjiro Okochi (1898-1962), Japan's most famous silent film star. Known as Okochi Sanso, this attractive ''spiral'' garden and teahouse complex is well worth exploring (entry includes a fine ceramic bowl of whipped green tea). The views from Mt. Ogura, where Okochi Sanso lies, have been celebrated in classical poetry since Heian times.
After leaving Okochi Sanso, follow the bamboo forest path back in the direction you came from and you will soon come to Nonomiya Shrine where the wind often rustles musically through the bamboo leaves. In the days of Hikaru Genji, the hero of the Heian romance The Tale of Genji (written by the female court officer, Murasaki Shikibu, in the 11th century), generations of imperial princesses spent a year undergoing purification rites at Nonomiya Shrine before taking up residence at the sacred seat of Japanese Shintoism, Ise Grand Shrine.
Next along the route lies Seiryo-ji Temple, also known as Saga Shaka-do. Founded in 987 by the priest Chonen, this temple is home to several National Treasures and numerous works of art, including a statue of the Buddha carved 1,000 years ago in China. The temple also features a fine mandala, a pond garden, and five rare wooden Heian-period statues.
Now follow the map route onwards to the bucolic thatched hut known as Rakushisha. Translated to mean the Cottage of the Fallen Persimmon, this site was visited by the famous haiku poet Basho Matsuo (1644-1694). A great number of stones in the garden are inscribed with poems (translations for some are given in the pamphlet).
Next meander west to Nison-in Temple. Until the capital was moved to Tokyo, Nison-in Temple was one of only four temples in Japan that conducted Imperial Buddhist ceremonies. Its hillside grounds are studded with the graves of emperors and aristocrats. The main temple building has two important Buddhist images of Shaka and Amida, and beautifully painted fusuma sliding doors. The spacious grounds are as tranquil and still as its long-term residents.
To continue, follow the map route north towards the simple yet beautiful grounds of Gio-ji Temple. Gio and her sister Gijo were Heian-period dancers. According to the Tale of the Heike, Gio was the mistress of Taira no Kiyomori (1118-1181), a famous military leader. When he became smitten with another dancer (with the stage name of Lady Buddha), he banished Gio from his mansion. A year later, Lady Buddha, filled with remorse for Gio, decided to join her, her sister, and mother in this secluded retreat. They lived out their days in prayer, waiting for this transient life and its humiliations to end.
Follow the map directions until you reach the approach to Ichi no Torii, the gateway to Mt. Atago and Atago Shrine (home to the deity of fire protection). Known as Torii-moto, the upper end of this incline has a few time-worn thatch-roof Kyoto-style farmhouses. On the way up the gentle slope you will pass a number of shops selling attractive souvenirs and crafts, as well as a couple of restaurants and coffee/tea shops. A little further along on the left you will find a stone stairway that leads to Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, a stunning temple that is famous for its thousands of stone Buddhist images.
The red torii (shrine gate) at the top of the road marks the beginning of the two-hour climb to the top of Mt. Atago and Atago Shrine. On either side of the torii are huge 400-year-old tea houses that have served pilgrims and visitors for centuries. Meals are also served at both places (about 10,000 yen; reservations necessary). But for hardly anything you can enjoy a bowl of tea inside the ancient smoke-darkened interior, or outside on a red felt covered bench.
If you walk uphill (with the torii to your left) you will come to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple. An English pamphlet is available upon request. On the hilly grounds of this temple the visitor will find a wonderful array of unusual carved stone Buddhist figures, characterized by big smiles and joyful energy.
\\Recommended & Restaurants in Arashiyama
Togetsutei Shofukaku
Togetsutei is a traditional Japanese ryokan inn facing the river, west of the Togetsu-kyo Bridge. Here, you can enjoy superb views of the river while savouring the sophisticated delights of their authentic Japanese kaiseki cuisine. They also have a fine onsen hot spa facility (some rooms are equipped with a private open air bath). Day-trip plans, including lunch and bath, are available (from 3,990 yen/person; 11:00-15:00; towels will be provided). Tel: 075-871-1310; http://www.togetsutei.co.jp/
Takemura
Takemura is an old Japanese restaurant that specializes in yu-dofu, a popular winter cuisine in Kyoto. Takemura’s tofu is made by a local tofu specialist with Japanese soy beans and pure local well water. Course menus are recommended (3,100 yen - 4,600 yen). Meals are served in traditional Japanese tatami rooms. Open: 11:30-20:00; closed: Thurs.; Tel: 075-861-1483; http://www.a-dos.ne.jp/map/ukyo/takemura/
Shigetsu
Shigetsu, overlooking a beautifully landscaped garden inside the Tenryu-ji Temple complex, serves unique Buddhist vegetarian shojin ryori lunches using yuba, tofu and seasonal vegetables. Many shojin ryori ingredients are Kyoto specialty products. Reservations are necessary. Open: 11:00-14:00; Tel: 075-882-9725.
\\Kyoto Hanatouro in Arashiyama 2011
December 9 (Fri.) - 18 (Sun.)
Light up hours: 17:00-20:30
Hanatouro
An elegant night-time experience
Kyoto Hanatouro, one of the most popular large-scale modern events in the Old Capital, is staged every December in the Arashiyama district. The 5-km route will be lined with 2,500 lanterns made using Kyoto craft traditions and materials (ceramics, cedar, stone, bamboo, etc.). Along the route, visitors will also find a number of huge ikebana flower displays. In addition to the lanterns and flower arrangements, visitors will find many other attractions and events on their stroll through the area.
The Arashiyama area in western Kyoto has long been favored by the high-born, artistic and wealthy as a place of exceptional beauty. The rolling mountains in the background and the flowing waters of the Oi River, crossed by the graceful Togetsu-kyo Bridge, combine to create one of the most beautiful and famous scenic areas in Japan.
Arashiyama Hanatouro Highlights
Togetsu-kyo Bridge
The Togetsukyo Bridge is a symbol of Arashiyama. It will be beautifully lit up during the event. This is the perfect place to stop and see the lights on the bridge reflected in the water below.
Bamboo Forest Path
The path leading through the bamboo forest that stretches from Nonomiya Shrine to Okochi Sanso Villa will be lit up. Experience the greens and the exotic shadows of the bamboo forest when dimly lit.
Ikebana Promenade
Large scale ikebana flower arrangements will be displayed at 8 key locations along the main route.
Street Performance by University Students
Kyoto university students will stage a variety of performances in Nakanoshima Park.
Maiko Photo Shoot
Visitors can take a picture with a real maiko and rickshaw (from 17:30 at Nakanoshima Park). Note: limited to 100 groups per day (first-come, first-serve; only one camera per group); the event will be cancelled in the case of rain.
D-K LIVE at Horin-ji Temple
The internationally acclaimed digital artist Akira Hasegawa's innovative ''D-K (Digital Kakejiku hanging scroll)'' will staged at Horin-ji Temple. During the event, about one million images will be projected in slow motion on a large screen.
Night Gallery Program by Art University Students
Huge artistic Japanese lanterns and other unique art works created by art university students will be displayed in Nakanoshima Park.
Prayer and Light
In front of Rakushisha, people can write their wishes and prayers on a strip of paper and make a candle offering (prayer paper & candle: 100 yen; 17:30-20:00).
Hot Apple Tea Service
Hot apple tea will be served in front of Hankyu Arashiyama Station (Dec. 9, 10, 16, 17; from 19:00; available to 1,000 people per day).
Kyoto Lantern Light by Tsujimura
Beautiful traditional lanterns made with hand-painted Yuzen kimono textiles and ink paintings (produced by Tsujimura, a Kyoto lantern specialist) will be displayed along the balcony of Horin-ji Temple.
Participating Temples, Shrines & Places
Tenryu-ji Temple: 8:30-17:00 (not open at night); 500 yen; Jojakko-ji Temple: 17:00-20:30; 400 yen; Hogon-in Temple: 17:00-20:30; 600 yen; Horin-ji Temple: sunset-20:30; free of charge; Nonomiya Shrine: sunset-20:00; free of charge; Okochi Sanso Villa: 17:00-20:00; 1,000 yen; Rakushisha Hermitage: 17:00-20:30; 200 yen; Nison-in Temple: 17:00-20:30; 500 yen
Hogon-in Temple
Enquiries
For further information, call the Kyoto Hanatouro Promotion Association Office: Tel: 075-212-8173; http://www.hanatouro.jp
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