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The Wonders of Japanese Green Tea
A cup of magic for health
May is the season of shin-cha or 'new tea'. Tea fields in Uji or other tea field areas will be a paradise of beautiful new green. Shin-cha leaves are like precious jewelry that we can only enjoy for a few weeks of the year. Tea is one of the better known specialties of Kyoto. Kyoto is the first place in Japan that tea seeds were planted, and needless to say, Kyoto is where the traditional Japanese tea ceremony was born. While you are in Kyoto this month, why not enjoy the pleasures of a special cup of Shin-cha Japanese tea?
Japanese tea history
Tea first arrived in Japan in the possession of the famous Japanese priest Eisai, who returned from a long stay in Sung dynasty China in 1191. His precious seeds were planted in Uji and flourished there in the warm, moist climate. At that time tea was highly prized in China for its medicinal properties and for use in rituals. And the Japanese priesthood and aristocracy took to tea quickly. However, due to the labor intensive nature of making tea it remained a luxury for nearly 1,000 years, only becoming a part of daily life for the average person at the end of the Edo (1600-1868) or early Meiji Period (1868-1912).
Japanese green tea and English black tea are distinct varieties of the same plant. Japanese tea is of the Chinese type, while black tea is of the Assam (India) variety. The Chinese variety is grown primarily in China, Japan and a few other Southeast Asian countries. Tea leaves are either hand picked or machine harvested. Believe it or not, the tea picking method has a strong influence on the final product's taste. Like when certain vegetables are cut with a knife, tea leaves can take on a metallic taste from the machine blade. Hand picking, despite the fact that it is becoming increasing rare in Japan, still results in the finest teas. Economically, however, the advantages of machine picking are indisputable, yielding 30 times more tea in the same amount of time.
Japanese green tea characteristics
The differences in the type of tea yielded depend primarily on the way the plant is grown and how the leaves are processed. The best qualities of Japanese tea are produced by severely limiting the amount of direct sunlight reaching the leaves, in a uniquely Japanese technique which produces a sweeter tasting tea. However, the biggest difference between Japanese teas and Chinese blends is fermentation. Japanese tea is steamed to prevent fermentation, and this increases the tea's aroma.
It is a well established fact that tea is good for you. Tea is said to slow human ageing, the outbreak of cavities, lessen the effects of hangovers, prevent colds, and have a cosmetic effect on the skin. Specifically, the chlorophyll in tea improves blood and skin quality. Green tea also contains significant amounts of vitamin B and C. Because it is alkaline, it also has a good effect on the stomach. Recently, studies have also shown that green tea can prevent certain kinds of cancer. So drinking a little Japanese tea everyday is something worth thinking about.
Shin-cha, the best tea of the year
Japanese tea leaves are categorized into 4 distinct kinds: ichiban-cha (first tea; harvested from late April to mid May), niban-cha (second tea; mid June to early July), sanban-cha (third tea; late July to early August) and yonban-cha (fourth tea; late September to early October). Then there is a special tea leaf called shin-cha or 'new tea' which is harvested earlier during the ichiban-cha harvest.
Shin-cha is traditionally harvested on Hachiju Hachi-ya (the eighty-eighth night) which is generally May 2 (this year, it is May 1 according to the lunar calendar year), counting from February 3 (called Risshun), which more or less is the beginning of the spring in the lunar calendar year. It is said that people can stay healthy for the entire year if they drink the shin-cha of that year. The flavor of shin-cha is very fresh and aromatic.
Shin-cha is specially tasty because the leaves store up special nutrients during cold winter period. The new spring leaves are full of nutrients and contain more moisture than teas that are harvested later.
Wazuka Town
A major producer of top quality Uji tea
Located at the southern edge of Kyoto prefecture, Wazuka Town is nestled in an area of low hills. Fresh air, a cool climate and a large temperature difference between night and day are necessary for top quality tea. Because of its ideal natural environment, Wazuka Town is one of the top Uji tea leaf production areas in Kyoto Prefecture. More than half of the households in the town are related to tea production.
During the Kamakura period (1192-1333), a high-ranking Buddhist monk from a local temple received tea seeds and chose Wazuka as the most suitable location to grow them. This is the beginning of tea production in Wazuka Town. During the Edo period, the area was exclusively used to produce tea for the Imperial family.
Many varieties of tea can be created by altering the growing method, harvest season, the section of the plant used, and the post-harvest preparation process. Wazuka Town is one of the few places in Japan that continues to follow strict traditional methods. One example is the steaming process used. In order to preserve the flavor, aroma and leave shape as much as possible, tea leaves that have been picked by hand, leaf by leaf, are 'quick steamed'.
An interview with a Japanese tea leaf farmer
Today, there are about 300 tea farms in Wazuka Town. About 100 of them are full-time farms. The typical tea farm in Wazuka is located on a steep slope. Most tea farms in other large tea production areas are on flat fields. For visitors to Wazuka Town, the steeply sloped tea fields are a beautiful sight. However, because they are on steep slopes the tea farmer has to work harder and longer. They can't use large machines on the slopes and much of the work involves a lot of manual labor.
Though many of the tea farms are run by the young heads of old families, labor is always a serious challenge during peak tea production. To get the work done the farms employ young students and laborers from all over Japan.
Mr. Onishi, a 5th generation Japanese tea leaf farmer in Wazuka Town, is one of the young generation farmers actively involved in the town's tea industry. Several years ago, some of the farms, including Mr. Onishi's, joined a NGO group called NICE (Never-ending International Work Camp Exchange). They accept about 20 or 30 young people from all over the world and give them the opportunity to experience the town's tea farming industry for a few weeks.
'Some people don't join the project, but some, including myself, strongly felt that it is very important for our town to let the world know about our tea farming industry. I wanted to try new challenges and I really like the results of this program. It is very interesting to communicate with people from different countries. All of them say they really enjoyed their time in Wazuka and were very happy to work here. I am really happy to hear that and I hope we can introduce Wazuka's wonderful tea farming industry to the world little by little.'
'The young people who come here from all over the world only spend a few weeks with us but they really work hard and learn a lot. They ask unusual questions and suggest unconventional ideas. These questions and ideas make me see my daily work from different perspectives. One day, one of the people asked me why we don't cultivate tea with 100% organic methods. Actually, it is very difficult for many reasons. However, I can at least see that is one of the international perspectives. This kind of thinking could be the beginning of new developments and opportunities in the tea industry.'
Your next cup of Japanese green tea, could be from a Wazuka tea farm. For more information about the tea industry in Wazuka Town, visit their website (in English and French): http://wazuka.kyoto-fsci.or.jp/wazuka-cha/
How to enjoy sencha the best?
When brewing Japanese green tea, the temperature of the water greatly affects the final taste. Lower temperature brings out the flavor, while higher temperature brings out the astringency. Here is the way to enjoy the best taste of sencha Japanese green tea.
*2 heaping tablespoons (about 10 grams) of leaves per 210 ml is the best portion. To get the full flavor of sencha, a proper balance between leaves and water is essential. Even a one-person serving requires 10 grams of leaves to produce the proper flavor.
*80 deg C (176 deg F) is the best water temperature. To cool boiling water down to 80 deg C, you can pour it into tea cups before pouring it into the tea pot. This also serves to pre-warm the tea cups.
The tea will be ready one minute later. Try not to disturb the leaves during steeping, as this will bring out the bitterness. To ensure an even strength, pour a little tea into each teacup in turn, then repeat. The last a few drops contain the essence of the tea's best flavor. Don't leave any tea in the tea pot! When brewing the 2nd and 3rd pot, no steeping is required. Just add 80 deg C water, and immediately serve.
Where to get/learn about Japanese tea?
Ippodo, Fukujuen, Horaido, Matsuda Toukouen and Marukyu Koyamaen are some of Japan's most famous tea retailers, and offer visitors a wide range of tea related products. These shops have every kind of tea that you might want (at all price levels) and a comprehensive selection of accessories for making and enjoying tea.
Ippodo regularly offers great chance to learn how to select and how to drink Japanese tea (sencha, gyokuro, matcha, bancha) in the best way. One lesson lasts about 1 hour and reservation necessary. English instruction is available sometimes. For more information or enquiry, visit their English website; www.ippodo-tea.co.jp/en/
How to make tasty Japanese Tea Workshop at Ippodo
Fukujuen opened its product research center in 1990. Visitors can watch videos explaining how tea leaves are processed and see all kinds of tea research specialists at work. During the tour, visitors can either experience Japanese tea ceremony in a traditional tea ceremony room or enjoy teas from all over the world; reservation required; 500 yen; closed Sat., Sun., and holidays; http://www.fukujuen.com/Fukujuen CHA Research Center 
Marukyu Koyamaen's Makishima tea factory is open to the public. The 90-min. factory visit includes 1) an English video about tea, 2) an overview of matcha green tea powder production, 3) a look at a tea leaf quality inspection room, 4) a tea ceremony room experience (to drink and make a bowl of Japanese matcha green tea); reservations accepted by email only; free of charge; see their English website for details; www.marukyu-koyamaen.co.jp/
Marukyu Koyamaen Makishima Factory
2008 August
Published on the 1st
of every month.
The 223th issue, since 1987.