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July in Kyoto
Month of the Gion Matsuri Festival
July is the month of the Gion Matsuri Festival, one of the three greatest and most historical festivals in Japan. From the beginning to the end of the month, many interesting and beautiful events related to the festival will be held at various locations (see pg 9 for festival highlights). A large-scale annual pottery fair is also one of this month's big attractions (see this page). This fair is a great opportunity to find inexpensive, handmade ceramics from all over Japan. And remember, July is the hottest month of the year: get out early and go slow!
Cormorant Fishing in Arashiyama and Uji
This unique, old way of fishing (dating from the 8th century), using traditional, lantern-lit boats and cormorants, is known as ukai in Japanese. The cormorants are tied to the boat with thin cords attached to a thick ring around their necks. When they come up from a dive the fisherman opens their mouths and takes the fish out. In Kyoto and Uji, the exotic and beautiful ukai tradition continues as a popular tourist attraction. Travel back in time to the slow days and nights of old.
Ukai in Arashiyama (7/1-9/15): Near the Togetsukyo Bridge, you can watch from ukai sightseeing boats. This year, to celebrate the 1,000th anniversary of the Tale of Genji (the world's first novel written in the Heian period), a gorgeous Imperial-style ukai boat has been reproduced for the first time in 1,000 years. People dressed in elegant Heian period costumes will steer the boat and manipulate the cormorants. Boat fares are 2,300 yen for adults and 1,150 yen for children; departing at 19:00 and 20:00; Tel: 861-0302.
Ukai in Uji (until 8/13): On the southeast side of the Uji Bridge (a 15-min. walk from JR or Keihan Uji Stn.); 1,800 yen for adults and 900 yen for children; departing at 19:00.
Other Highlights
6/17-7/16
Hydrangea Festival
More than 3,000 hydrangea shrubs bloom in this huge garden; 700 yen; Sanzen-in Temple; to get there take Kyoto bus #17, #18 from Kyoto Stn.; Tel: 744-2531.
7
Kibune Water Festival
This ceremony honors the life-giving waters that pass through this riverside village (famous for its outdoor, on-the-river restaurants: a cool, unforgettable lunch experience). At about 10:00, Urasenke Tea School masters will perform a tea ceremony for the shrine god. After that, in the tradition of the Ikama imperial cooking school, sea bream and carp will be carefully prepared, arranged and offered to the deity. Sacred Shinto dance and kagura music, follow the food offering ceremony. In the evening (7/1-8/7) from sunset to 20:00, the grounds of the shrine are specially lit up. Kibune Shrine; Tel: 741-2016.
This children's festival originated from an ancient Chinese legend. In the story, a cow herder and a weaver fall in love and begin to neglect their work. The gods become angry at their selfishness and disrespect and turn them into stars. They are reunited but once a year when their paths cross on this day. In this festival, Japanese children decorate bamboo branches with paper decorations and tanzaku (oblong pieces of colored, folded paper) on which they write their wishes. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine at 13:30 children will dance; Tel: 461-0005. Jishu Shrine (inside Kiyomizu Temple); pairs of paper kokeshi dolls are sold for 500 yen; write your name on one and your partner's name on the other; hang them together in a bamboo thicket; and wish for eternal love; prayers for the dolls start at 14:00; Tel: 541-2097. Shiramine Shrine, kemari, a 1,000-year-old kind of soccer, will be played at 14:30; after the game, at about 16:30, a traditional dance is performed by young children in kimono; Tel: 441-3810.
Tanabata Matsuri Festival
Inspiration for children!
9-12
Pottery Fair
This fair is dedicated to pottery used in daily life; prayers are said at 14:00 on the 10th for used porcelain. A wide selection of pottery from all over Japan will be sold from 10:00 to 20:00 on each of the four days. At Senbon Shaka-do Temple; Tel: 461-5973.
20
Onda-sai (Rice Planting Festival)
This ceremony is believed to protect rice plants from insects. At around 10:00, three 5-8 year-old girls, wearing kimono and holding rice shoots in their hands, are carried three times around the shrine on the shoulders of men from the surrounding area. Matsuo Taisha Shrine: near Matsuo Stn. on Hankyu Railway's Arashiyama line; Tel: 871-5016.
19 & 20
Motomiya Matsuri
Inari Shrines dedicated to the rice harvest deity and now strongly affiliated with business are found all over Japan. Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Taisha (grand shrine) is the parent shrine of all these shrines. It is also one of Kyoto's best, off-the-tourist track walking and exploration areas. On this day, worshippers from all over will come and pray to the shrine deity. Around 18:00 on both of these days, thousands of paper lanterns will be lit. Following this a bon-odori dance will be performed for the shrine deity. Fushimi Inari Shrine; Tel: 641-7331.
21 & 24
Cucumber Service
At Jinko-in, from 7:00 to 16:30 (apply by 16:00) on 21st and 24th, people write their names, ages, and type of illness on a form. Temple personnel then transfer the information to a piece of paper which is wrapped around a cucumber into which an amulet has been inserted. The cucumber is then blessed and handed back to the person, who proceeds to rub it over the afflicted area of their body. The cucumber is then taken home and buried in the yard. As it rots, the illness is believed to disappear! One cucumber and a temple blessing costs 1,500 yen. Jinko-in Temple; Tel: 491-4375.
23, 24, 8/2
Cucumber Service
At Gochisan Renge-ji Temple the person's name, age, and illness are written directly on a cucumber. You can write the information yourself or ask to have it done. Then you rub the cucumber on the part of your body that is in pain or is afflicted. After this, the cucumber is set in the river. From 12:00-21:00 on the 23rd, and 6:00 to 18:00 on the 24th & Aug. 2nd; 1,000 yen. Gochisan Renge-ji: just east of Ninna-ji Temple; Tel: 462-5300.
24-27
Mitarashi Matsuri
Every year in July, Shimogamo Shrine celebrates the purifying powers of its powerful deity in a ceremony called the Mitarashi Matsuri. The ceremony is informal and anyone can join. Holding a candle in one hand and your shoes in the other, you step into the icy-cold, clear stream that flows through the shrine. After wading upstream for a few meters, you place your candle on a special holder, and then climb up several stone steps to receive a cup of delicious spring water. Drinking the water is believed to ensure a summer of health and vitality; Shimogamo Shrine: Tel: 781-0010.
25
Pumpkin Service
At Anraku-ji Temple, shishigatani kabocha (pumpkins unique to Kyoto) are used instead of cucumbers in this illness prevention/healing service (see above): 9:00-15:00; 400 yen. The temple's treasures will be on display on this day as well. Anraku-ji Temple: east of Shirakawa Street, south of Honen-in Temple; Tel: 771-5360.
25-27
Kiyomizu Danchi Pottery Fair (7/25-27)
A popular summer pottery fair, this event is based in the area where the famous Kiyomizu pottery kilns are currently located (in Yamashina, on the east side of the mountains running down the east side of Kyoto). More than 100 shops sell all kinds of pottery at discounts of 30-50%. Visitors can also enjoy 1-day pottery classes, tea ceremony, and many other events. The fair is held at the Kiyomizu Danchi (which can be reached via a special bus from platform #3 of Kyoto Stn.) or Keihan Bus #29 from JR Yamashina Stn.; Tel: 581-6188.
31
Sennichi Mairi Night-Walk
On this night, thousands of pilgrims climb Mount Atago in an annual spiritual event known as Sennichi-mairi. One trip to Atago Shrine (at the summit) on this date earns you the equivalent of 1,000 visits! People from all over Japan have climbed this peak for centuries to obtain a fire protection amulet. The last trains for Arashiyama on the Keifuku line leave Shijo-Omiya at 23:45. Special shuttle buses will also run from Arashiyama Station to Kiyotaki (20 min.) in the evening until around midnight. There will be no public transportation back to the city until dawn, so plan on returning by taxi. The first train from Arashiyama to Shijo Omiya leaves at 6:00. The first buses (Kyoto Bus) from Kiyotaki to Arashiyama (and on to Sanjo Keihan Station) leave at 6:26 (#62); 6:42 (#72) and 6:52 (#62); Tel: 861-0658.
Temple & Shrine Flea Markets
7/6, Sun.: To-ji Temple: this market is focused on antiques of all kinds; usually not too crowded; 7:00-16:00; Kyoto City Hall: a huge public flea market; 10:00-17:00; Taishogun Hachi Shrine: a small antique market; 9:00-15:00; 7/8, Tues.: Hokoku Shrine: small antique market; 10:00-15:00. Inba Yakushi Temple: handicrafts; 9:00-15:00; 7/12, Sat.: Myoren-ji Temple: a lovely setting to find inexpensive kimono and antiques; 9:00-17:00; 7/13, Sun.: Fujinomori Shrine: handicrafts; a 5-min. walk west of Keihan Fujinomori Stn.; 7/15, Tues.: Chion-ji Temple: Kyoto's biggest handicraft market; 8:00-16:00; 7/21, Mon.: To-ji Temple: also known as Kobo-san, this market has everything and is extremely popular; 7:00-17:00; 7/25, Fri.: Kitano Tenmangu Shrine: also known as Tenjin-san, this market sprawls in and around this major shrine; 7:00-19:00.
2008 July
Published on the 1st
of every month.
The 222th issue, since 1987.