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Savory Kyoto
Essay by Risa Sekiguchi
Kyoto's Cold Noodles
Chilled noodles for dipping into summer

Oroshi soba and Zaru udon/Photo by Hotaru Images
August brings intense sunshine and baking heat to Kyoto. As the city soaks up the sun's rays and radiates them back, a visitor can tire easily. On days like this, you might consider ducking into a traditional machiya (townhouse) for some chilled noodles, especially when the thought of a full meal seems unappetizing.
In fact, Kyoto-ites regard noodles as a snack rather than a proper meal, for in many traditional Japanese minds, a meal is not complete without rice. And so noodle places have the added advantage of being open all day long (and deep into the night), which is very convenient for the traveler who doesn’t stick to traditional mealtimes. Noodles of all kinds are also inexpensive and quick-the original fast food.
Try some of these classic summer noodle dishes to beat the heat:
Somen is particularly light and makes its appearance in the hot season. Originally regarded as a food for aristocrats, these ultra-thin white wheat noodles are feather-light, and when presented in a glass bowl full of chilled water and enjoyed with cold dipping sauce and grated ginger, they are immensely elegant and satisfying. Just the sight of somen is enough to make a diner feel cool.

Somen/Photo by Hotaru Images
Zaru soba (soba served on a sieve with dipping sauce) is also a favorite, and is regarded as the classic way to enjoy this highly nutritious vitamin-rich buckwheat noodle. Kyoto is home to several traditional soba shops that still make fresh soba by hand (or machine) daily. Fresh soba has a unique springy texture that is lost when dried or frozen, so it's highly recommend for visitors. Try it sprinkled with nori (seaweed) and spike the dipping sauce with wasabi and chopped scallions. For variety, try zaru udon, made from thick wheat noodles.

Soba and yuba/Photo by Hotaru Images
Hiyashi chūka only appears on the menus at ramen shops during the summer, and although the name translates to ''cold Chinese'', this noodle recipe is a Japanese invention. Chilled and drained ramen noodles are covered with a mound of freshly julienned vegetables and drenched in a cold, sweet soy & dashi sauce fragrant with sesame oil. The result is like a noodle salad; delicious, especially with a dab of neri karashi (Chinese-style mustard).

Hiyashi chūka/Photo by Hotaru Images
Of course, you can also make these dishes at home (recipes on Savory Japan, savoryjapan.com), but don't miss the opportunity to try them in Kyoto, where they often have unique touches: perhaps topped with yuba (tofu skin) or Kyoto negi (green onion). Finish your ''snack'' with a cold glass of genmai cha, and within minutes, you’ll be refreshed and energized to venture back out into the midday sun.
Risa Sekiguchi is the founder of Savory Japan, a website dedicated to Japanese cuisine and culture. For information on noodles, visit Savory Japan: savoryjapan.com/noodles.html. For noodle recipes, visit savoryjapan.com/recipes/noodles/noodles.html
