Setsubun
Season division to welcome luck and happiness



Setsubun, literally ''season division,'' is the most important festival of spring in Japan. Before changing to the Western calendar in 1873, Setsubun marked the lunar New Year in Japan, as it continues to do in China (this being Chinese New Year: 2010 is the Year of the Tiger; starting February 14). In traditional homes, the whole family will join together and chant, ''Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi.'' (''Out with the demons, in with good luck.''), then enthusiastically scatter soy beans about the house to bring good luck. Get out and enjoy Setsubun this year: day and night!

Setsubun Rituals

2/2-3
Shogo-in Temple
Colorful demons chased off by a mountain ascetic (13:00). From 15:00, gomagi branches are burned in a large bonfire; City Bus #206, Kumano-jinaja-mae; Tel: 075-771-1880.

2/2-3
Yasaka Shrine
Traditional dance performances by geiko (the local name for geisha) and maiko (their apprentices): at 13:00 and 15:00; City Bus #206, Gion; Tel: 075-561-6155.


2/2-4
Mibu Temple
On the 2nd, there will be a procession of yamabushi mountain ascetics and children; on the 2nd and 3rd, hourly, 13:00-20:00, an 11th century Buddhist morality pantomine play will be performed; entry free; City Bus #26, Mibudera-michi; Tel: 075-841-3381.


2/2-4
Yoshida Shrine
During the Setsubun Karo Festival (starting from about 21:00 on the 3rd; try to arrive after 23:00) amulets and charms are burned in a giant central bonfire. Stalls selling sake, hot food, and fun will be open on all three days; City Bus #206, Kyodai Seimon-mae; Tel: 075-771-3788.


2/3
Heian Shrine
At 12:00, kyogen (the comic interludes between Noh plays) will be performed, and at 15:00 demons are driven out with blazing torches; City Bus #5, Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae; Tel: 075-761-0221.

2/3
Rozan-ji Temple
Devils in great costumes make this demon dance one of the most popular and fantastic (from 15:00); City Bus #17, 205, Furitsu Idai Byoin-mae; Tel: 075-231-0355.


2/3
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine Kyogen (traditional comedies) from 13:00 followed by Japanese dance performed by the geiko of nearby Kamishichiken; City Bus #50, Kitano Tenmangu-mae; Tel: 075-461-0005.


Mon., Wed., Fri. in Feb. (except for Feb. 26)
Gion Corner Winter Special: Tea Party with Maiko

Until 3/7
Kyoto Ikebana Exhibition in Kyoto Station
In the JR Kyoto Station Shinkansen concourse, masters from various ikebana schools will display their exquisite ikebana works as a special way of welcoming visitors (6:00-23:00); free (the entry fee to enter the shinkansen concourse must be paid if one does not have a shinkansen ticket; Access: JR Kyoto Stn.


1
Hatsu Uma Festival

Grand festival is held from 14:00. The festival is based on the legend that shrine deity, Inari (protector of grains, especially rice, and thus wealth/business in general), descended from heaven to the top of Mt. Inari. On this day, people pray for good business and a healthy family life; Fushimi Inari Shrine; Tel: 075-641-7331; JR Inari Sta. or Keihan Fushimi Inari Sta.


8
Hari Kuyo (Services for Pins & Needles)
This temple enshrines the diety of needle work and entertainment. On this day, professional seamstresses and housewives stick their used needles in a slab of rubbery jelly; prayers are then said at 13:00. Horin-ji Temple; City Bus #28, Arashiyama Koen; Tel: 075-861-0069.



11
Nanakusa-gayu Rice Porridge Ceremony
Jonan-gu Shrine is a setting of the Tale of Genji. The shrine priest offers a special rice porridge using spring wild plants to the deity. The seven kind plants are growing in the shrine garden (open: 10:00-16:00); Rice porridge: 450 yen; Jonan-gu Shrine; Tel: 075-623-0846; Kintetsu Takeda Sta., and take Kyoto City Bus Minami #1, 2, 3, get off at Jonangu Higashi-guchi


2/18-3/21
Weeping Plum Blossom and Camellia Festival
In the shrine's vast Rakusui-en garden, more than 150 weeping plum trees create beautiful contrast of red and white. Also 300 camellia trees will be in the best time in Feb. and Mar.; 500 yen; take City Bus #1, 2, 3 from subway Takeda Stn. and get off at Jonangu Higashi-guchi; Tel: 075-623-0846; www.jonangu.com


23
Godai-Rikison Ninno-e

In this amazing competition (at 12:00) people compete to lift enormous mochi rice cakes; men 150 kg, and women 90 kg. Daigo-ji Temple: 10-15-min walk from Daigo Stn. on the Tozai subway line; Tel: 075-571-0002.


25

Baika-sai Plum Blossom Viewing Festival

Huge outdoor tea ceremony (from 10:00), performed by the geiko and maiko; whipped green maccha tea and a sweet 1,500 yen. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine; City Bus #50, Kitano Tenmangu-mae; Tel: 075-461-0005.


28
Kyoto Traditional Entertainment Festival
Nenbutsu Kyogen or theatre play of chanting Buddhist sutra is one of Kyoto's unique theatre culture. Several major temples has succeeded this culture and on this day, all of Kyoto's main temples known for the Nenbutsu Kyogen come together and visitors can enjoy all of it at one time; 1,700 yen; from 14:00; Kyoto Kaikan Second Hall; Access: Kyoto City Bus #100, get off at Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae; Tel: 075-752-0227.






Temple & Shrine Flea Markets


2/7, Sun.
To-ji Temple: this market is focused on antiques of all kinds; usually not too crowded; great value all around; 7:00-16:00


2/8, Mon.
Toyokuni Shrine: small antique market; 10:00-15:00
Inba Yakushi Temple: handicrafts; 9:00-15:00


2/12, Fri.
Myoren-ji Temple: a lovely relaxing setting for inexpensive kimono and all kinds of antiques, local produce, etc.; 9:00-17:00


2/14, Sun.
Kyoto City Hall: a huge public flea market; 10:00-17:00
Bishamon-do in Kennin-ji Temple: artistic handicrafts & arts; 10:00-16:00


2/15, Mon.
Chion-ji Temple: Kyoto's biggest handicraft market; an absolutely amazing range of handmade things; incredible prices too! ; 8:00-16:00


2/21, Sun.
To-ji Temple: also known as Kobo-san, this mega temple market offers everything and is extremely popular; go early, especially if on a weekend or a national holiday; 7:00-17:00


2/25, Thurs.
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine: also known as Tenjin-san, this super shrine market sprawls in and around this major shrine complex; go early; 7:00-16:30


NOTE: markets shut down much earlier in autumn and winter; when the days get longer and warmer sellers tend to stay a little longer. AND DON'T FORGET TO BARGAIN: generally try to knock about 25-30% off the price you first hear.