Setsubun Festival Rituals & Events
To avoid misfortune & welcome spring



February 3rd, which is one day before Risshun (the first day of spring according to the lunar calendar), is known as Setsubun in Japan. Though it's not a national holiday, the event is widely celebrated throughout the country in various forms. One of the most popular Setsubun celebrations is mame maki (bean throwing) in which people throw roasted soy beans throughout their home, shouting ''oni wa soto'' (demons out) and ''fuku wa uchi'' (fortune in). These beans are called fuku mame (fortune beans). It is believed that people will be healthy and happy if they pick up and eat the number of fuku mame equal to their age. Eating fortune sushi rolls is another Setsubun custom.



Bean throwing ceremonies, devil dances and other related events are held at many temples and shrines. Here is a list of popular shrines and temples in Kyoto for Setsubun events.


Feb. 2 & 3
Yasaka Shrine


A Setsubun ceremony starts from 9:00 and includes auspicious soy bean scattering, sweet Japanese sake service, and an amulet offering. On these two days, maiko from all of Kyoto's flower towns will visit the shrine and scatter beans (dance dedication from 13:00 & 15:00); Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Gion; Tel: 075-561-6155; http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/yasaka/

Feb. 2 & 3
Shogo-in Temple
The temple's main Buddhist deity (Fudo Myo-o) will be open to the public on both of these days. A special Setsubun ceremony will be held from 13:00 on the 3rd; Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Kumano Jinja-mae; Tel: 075-771-1880.

Feb. 2 & 3
Senbon Enma-do Temple
On both days, boiled konnyaku (made from taro yam starch; 400 yen) will be sold to worshippers. A kyogen performance will be held from 19:30 on Feb. 3; Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Senbon Kuramaguchi; Tel: 075-462-3332.

Feb. 2-4
Mibu Temple
Mibu Kyogen performances (from 13:00 on each day), a procession, goma prayer-stick burning fire ceremony, and special prayers will be held at the temple during this period; in addition, people come to the temple to write their names and those of family members on clay plates to wish for good fortune; Access: Kyoto City Bus #26, get off at Mibudera-michi; Tel: 075-841-3381; http://www.mibudera.com/

Feb. 2-4
Yoshida Shrine
This shrine hosts the largest Setsubun festival in the city. Attending is believed to help in warding off misfortune. During the event people come to burn old amulets, papers and other personal possessions in a huge bonfire. Many food and fun stalls line the approach to the shrine and are open until very late. Setsubun ritual from 18:00 on the 2nd; Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Kyodai Seimon-mae; Tel: 075-771-3788; http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~yosida/

Feb. 3
Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine
The Setsubun Festival in the Kagura-den Hall starts from 13:00. Kyogen comic plays by the Shigeyama Sengoro Family will be performed along with Japanese dance, and maiko from the Kamishichiken district will perform an auspicious bean scattering ritual; Access: Kyoto City Bus #50, get off at Kitano Tenmangu-mae; Tel: 075-461-0005; http://www.kitanotenmangu.or.jp/

Feb. 3
Rozan-ji Temple
This temple is well-known for its Setsubun Oni Odori (demon dance). Oni demon dance: from 15:00; bean scattering from 16:00; old amulet burning from 17:00; Access: Kyoto City Bus #205, get off at Furitsu Idai Byoin-mae; Tel: 075-231-0355.

Feb. 3
Shimogamo Shrine
From 10:00, a special arrow shooting ritual will be held. Main Setsubun festival and old amulet burning ceremony at the main hall: from 10:00; bean and rice cake scattering: from 13:00; Access: Kyoto City Bus #205, get off at Shimogamo-jinja-mae; Tel: 075-781-0010; http://www.shimogamo-jinja.or.jp/

Feb. 3
Heian Shrine
From 12:00, Kyogen comic plays will be performed here. The Setsubun festival starts from 13:00; auspicious bean scattering from 15:00. Free sweet sake will be served throughout the day; Access: Kyoto City Bus #5, get off at Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae; Tel: 075-761-0221; http://www.heianjingu.or.jp/




Feb. 3
Hatsu Uma Festival at Fushimi Inari Grand Shrine


This grand festival is held from 8:00. The festival is based on the legend that the shrine deity, Inari (protector of grains, especially rice, and thus wealth/business in general), descended from heaven to the top of Mount Inari. On this day, people pray for good business and a healthy family life; Access: JR Inari Sta. or Keihan Fushimi Inari Stn.; Tel: 075-641-7331; http://inari.jp/


Feb. 5
Fushimi Sake Brewery Opening
Every year, Fushimi's sake breweries open to the public when the first sake of the year is ready. People can buy and as well as taste fresh sake at several breweries on these days. Kyoto vegetables, sake, pickles, dried seafood, flowers and other fresh products will be on sale; Sake tasting: 200 yen, includes small sake cup and three tickets; 11:00-15:00; Access: Kintetsu Momoyama Goryo-mae Stn.; Tel: 075-612-6006 (Fushimi Meishu Association).


Mid Feb.-mid Mar.
Weeping Plum Blossom and Camellia Festival at Jonan-gu Shrine
In the shrine's vast Rakusui-en garden, more than 150 weeping plum trees create a beautiful contrast of red and white. Also 300 camellia trees will be in bloom in Feb. and Mar.; 500 yen; Access: Take City Bus #1, 2, 3 from subway Takeda Stn. and get off at Jonangu Higashi-guchi; Tel: 075-623-0846; www.jonangu.com



Feb. 8
Hari Kuyo Services for Pins & Needles at Horin-ji Temple
This temple enshrines the deity of needle work and entertainment. On this day, professional seamstresses and housewives bring their used needles to the shrine and stick them in a slab of rubbery jelly; Prayers are said at 13:00; Access: City Bus #28, Arashiyama Koen; Tel: 075-861-0069.



Feb. 11
Hoshi Matsuri Fire Ceremony


The Agon Shu Hoshi Matsuri is held every year on February 11th at Agon Shu's main temple in Yamashina; The all-day ceremonies pray for world peace and for the peace of both the living and the passed away; Agon Shu main temple premises, Yamashina (7:30-16:00); Free of charge; Access: shuttle buses leaving to and from Kyoto Station, Hachijo-guchi exit, every 15 min., direct to site (about 20 min.), 300 yen; Tel: 075-761-1141; http://agon.org/us/events/a_03.html


Feb. 11
Nanakusa-gayu Rice Porridge Ceremony at Jonan-gu Shrine
Jonan-gu Shrine is one of the settings in the Tale of Genji. In this ceremony, the shrine priest offers special rice porridge made with seven special spring plants to the deity. These seven plants grow in the shrine garden (Entry: 500 yen); Access: Kintetsu Takeda Stn., and take Kyoto City Bus Minami #1, 2, 3, get off at Jonangu Higashi-guchi; Tel: 075-623-0846; www.jonangu.com


Feb. 21
Nento Festival at Kamigamo Shrine
This festival is based on the recreation of an ancient ceremony that Heian-period aristocrats held to welcome spring. The ceremony starts from 14:00; Access: Kyoto City Bus #46, Kamigamo Jinja-mae; Tel: 075-781-0011; http://www.kamigamojinja.jp/


Feb. 23
Godai Rikison Nino-e at Daigo-ji Temple


One of the temple halls enshrines a special deity related to power. In this amazing competition people compete to lift enormous mochi rice cakes: men 150 kg, and women 90 kg!; Access: A 10-15-min walk from Daigo Stn. on the Tozai subway line; Tel: 075-571-0002; http://www.daigoji.or.jp/


Feb. 25
Baika-sai Plum Blossom Viewing Festival at Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine


This huge outdoor tea ceremony (from 10:00), performed by geiko and maiko, is very popular; Participants will be served whipped green matcha green tea and a sweet 1,500 yen; Access: City Bus #50, Kitano Tenmangu-mae; Tel: 075-461-0005; http://www.kitanotenmangu.or.jp/


Feb. 26
Kyoto Traditional Entertainment Festival
The Kyoto Traditional Entertainment Festival is an annual event during which some of Kyoto’s representative entertainment forms are performed at Kyoto Kaikan Second Hall (14:00-16:30); 2,000 yen (reservation required); Access: Kyoto City Bus #5, 100, get off at Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae; Tel: 075-752-0227 (Kyoto City Tourism Association).


Until Mar. 4
Kyoto Ikebana Flower Arrangement Exhibition
Kyoto is the birth place of ikebana flower arrangement. Masters from various ikebana schools will display their exquisite ikebana works as a special way of welcoming visitors (may not be open on Mondays due to display rebuilding) in the JR Kyoto Station Shinkansen concourse; 6:00-23:00; Access: JR Kyoto Stn.; Free of charge.


Until Mar. 4 (Fri., Sat., Sun. only)
Kodai-ji Temple Night Time Tea Ceremony Tour
Kodai-ji Temple was founded by Nene, the wife of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, to commemorate his death. During the tour visitors can enjoy a fine bowl of green tea overlooking an excellent Japanese garden. The tour includes tea ceremony, entry to the garden, and a fine Japanese dinner (the tour lasts 2.5 hours); Reservations required; 6,000 yen; Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Higashiyama Yasui; Tel: 075-752-0227 (Kyoto City Tourism Association); http://www.kodaiji.com/








Temple & Shrine Flea Markets


Feb. 5, Sun.
To-ji Temple: This market is focused on antiques of all kinds; Usually not too crowded and great value all around; 7:00-16:00.

Feb. 8, Wed.
Toyokuni Shrine: A very small market of local products; 10:00-15:00.

Feb. 12, Sun.
Bishamon-do in Kennin-ji Temple: Known as Tora-ichi, this market specializes in handicrafts & arts; 10:00-16:00.

Feb. 15, Wed.
Chion-ji Temple: Kyoto's biggest handicraft market; absolutely amazing range of handmade things and incredible prices too!; 8:00-16:00.

Feb. 19, Sun.
Kyoto City Hall: A huge public flea market; 10:00-17:00.

Feb. 21, Tues.
To-ji Temple: Also known as Kobo-san, this mega temple market offers everything and is extremely popular; Go early, especially if on a weekend or a national holiday; 7:00-17:00.

Feb. 25, Sat.
Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine: Also known as Tenjin-san, this super shrine market sprawls in and around this major shrine complex; 7:00-16:30.

Feb. 26, Sun.
Kamigamo Shrine: Handicrafts, arts, food, and more; 9:00-16:00.


NOTE: Markets shut down much earlier in autumn and winter; when the days get longer and warmer sellers tend to stay a little longer.