Poets at Play



On November 3, an elegant poetry game will be played along the stream that runs through Jonan-gu Shrine in southern Kyoto.

The game, known as Kyokusui no Utage, was introduced to Japan from China over 1500 hundred years ago. In the Nihon Shoki, one of Japan's oldest historical records, dating from the 8th century, it is written that on March 2nd, 485, Emperor Kenso called his ministers to his garden and played this poetry game for the first time in Japan. Over time, the game became an eagerly anticipated annual event for those of noble birth.

A thousand years ago, the high-born poets of the Heian period (794-1185) dressed in their finest court robes played Kyokusui no Utage along the mossy banks of the Yarimizu stream in the precinct of Jonan-gu Shrine. At the beginning of the game, a boy called a warawa placed a red sake cup on a tiny saucer in the stream. Before the cup reached the next poet, they had to create a 31-syllable Japanese poem and write it with a brush on a strip of fancy paper. When the sake cup sank, the warawa would fish it out with a special pole and place it back in the stream. Today, the game is still played in Kyoto twice a year (in spring and autumn).

On November 3rd, let the koto harp music of the ancient Heian court take you back to a refined and elegant age. At the end of the event the poems which have been composed will be read to the public. The tempo is slow, but stately.

Jonan-gu Shrine, built before Kyoto became the imperial capital, is home to the God of Direction. When people build a new house, move into another one, or travel, they visit this shrine to pray for good fortune.

Kyokusui no Utage takes place between 14:00 and 15:00. If it rains, the event will be cancelled. The event is free of charge. Jonangu Shrine: Tel: 075-623-0846; http://www.jonangu.com/




Until Nov. 3
Autumn Old Book Market at Chion-ji Temple
At this old book market, organized by the Kyoto Old Book Association, about 200,000 interesting old books of all kinds are displayed and sold; 10:00-17:00; Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Hyakumanben; Tel: 075-351-9663 (Sanmitsu-do Bookshop).

Until Nov. 6
Special Autumn Opening of the Kyoto Imperial Palace
People can enter the Imperial Palace without application during this period. No reservation is required during this special opening period (admission free); 9:00-15:30; Access: Karasuma subway line, Imadegawa Stn. or Marutamachi Stn.; Imperial Household Agency: Tel: 075-211-1211 (weekdays only: 8:30-17:15); http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/


Until Nov. 13
Ohara-me Festival in Ohara
In the idyllic Ohara area (northeast of Kyoto), people can try on a traditional Ohara-me (women who sold firewood from Ohara in Kyoto in the old days) costume and enjoy strolling through the village; 10:00-16:00; Access: Kyoto Bus #17, 18, get off at Ohara; Tel: 075-744-2148; http://kyoto-ohara-kankouhosyoukai.net/



Until Nov. 23
Autumn Chrysanthemum Exhibition at Nishi Hongan-ji Temple
About 400 chrysanthemum flower pots will be displayed in front of the Miei-do Hall; entry is free of charge; early to mid November is the best time to see these flowers; Access: Kyoto City Bus #9, get off at Nishihonganji-mae; Tel: 075-371-5181; http://www.hongwanji.or.jp/



Until Nov. 23
Nijo Castle Festival 2011
Every year Nijo Castle (World Heritage Site) hosts an autumn festival. A variety of interesting events and performances are held including a special opening of the castle's ink paintings, a castle & garden tour, and a Kyoto specialty market; Entry: 600 yen; Open: 8:45-17:00 (entry until 16:00); Access: Kyoto City Bus #9, 50, 101, get off at Nijojo-mae; Tel: 075-841-0096; http://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/nijojo/


Nov. 1
Inoko Festival at Go-o Shrine

A sacred ritual will be held from 17:00. Special rice cakes called Inoko-mochi will be served; Access: Karasuma subway line, Marutamachi Stn.; Tel: 075-441-5458; http://www.gooujinja.or.jp/


Nov. 1, 3, 6
Kyoto Citizen Tea Party at Nijo Castle
Masters of Japan's three tea ceremony schools (Urasenke, Omotesenke and Yabunouchi) will serve maccha green tea in a stunning garden at Nijo Castle; Tickets: 2,500 yen (two bowls of green tea, meal & entry to the castle); Open: 9:30-15:00; Access: Kyoto City Bus #9, 50, 101, get off at Nijojo-mae; Tel: 075-841-0096; http://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/nijojo/


Nov. 1-10
Gion Odori Dance Performance at Gion Kaikan
During this period, the geiko and maiko of Gion Higashi (one of Kyoto's five geiko/maiko districts) will perform their elegant dances; performances at 13:30 and 16:00 (the show lasts about one hour); Tickets: 4,000 yen (including maccha green tea), 3,500 yen; Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, 100, get off at Gion; Gion Higashi Kabukai: Tel: 075-561-0224; http://www.gionhigashi.com/


Nov. 1-30
Autumn Chrysanthemum Exhibition at Daikaku-ji Temple
This popular autumn flower exhibition, in a lovely rural setting, attracts people from all over Japan. About 500 chrysanthemum flowers, in pots, are on display; Entry: 500 yen; Access: Kyoto City Bus #28, get off at Daikakuji; Tel: 075-871-0071; http://www.daikakuji.or.jp/


Nov. 7
Ohitaki Festival at Kibune Shrine
This ancient sacred fire ritual is held to banish bad spirits. The ritual is held between 11:00 and 12:00; Access: Kyoto City Bus #4, get off at Demachiyanagi-eki-mae; then take the Eizan Railways Kurama Line to Kibune-guchi Stn. and walk to Kibune village; Tel: 075-741-2016; http://kibune.jp/jinja/


Nov. 8
Kanikakuni Festival at Gion Shirakawa

Maiko and geiko come to offer flowers in front of the memorial statue of Isamu Yoshii (1886-1960), a famous poet and playwright who loved the Gion district. A special memorial service will be held at the Shirakawa Bridge during which maiko and their teachers will offer their respects; Access: Kyoto City Bus #201, 203, 207, get off at Shijo Keihan-mae; Tel: 075-561-1115 (Gion Kobu Association).


Ohitaki Fire Festival at Fushimi Inari Shrine

This important festival is held to thank the gods for this year's harvest. Over 100,000 wooden prayer sticks offered by the faithful will be burnt and prayers will be held for family prosperity. The festival starts at 13:00 in front of the main shrine hall. Kagura dance will be performed for the shrine deity from 18:00; Access: JR Nara Line Inari Sta. or Keihan Fushimi Inari Stn.; Tel: 075-641-7331; http://inari.jp/


Nov. 12
English Rakugo by Sayohime
Rakugo is a 400-year-old form of comedic Japanese storytelling that is still popular today. Sayohime will present fun and interesting Rakugo in English; 19:00-19:50; 1,000 yen; Shijo Kyomachiya; Reservation recommended at: sayohimeworld@yahoo.co.jp; http://sayohime345.blog9.fc2.com/


Nov. 14
Urushi Lacquer Festival: at Kokuzo Horin-ji Temple
A memorial service starts at 11:00 and a kyogen theatre play will be performed. The temple's main Kokuzo Bosatsu statue is worshipped as the deity of lacquer and crafts. Many craft workers come here to pray for related business prosperity; Access: Kyoto City Bus #28, get off at Arashiyama Koen; Tel: 075-861-0069; http://www2.ocn.ne.jp/~horinji/


Nov. 20
Kimono Culture Performance
During this event visitors can learn how to wear a kimono and see displays of gorgeous kimono & juni-hitoe (Heian-period court costumes for women); from 13:30 on the 6th floor of the Museum of Kyoto; Access: Karasuma subway line, Karasuma Oike Stn.; Tel: 075-254-8883; http://www.bunpaku.or.jp/





Until Nov. 30
Hozugawa Kudari River Run

The Hozugawa Kudari is a river ride that goes from Kameoka to Arashiyama, Kyoto (about 16 km in 2 hours) along a stunning river gorge of rapids and wonderful mountain views. A number of fun/interesting events are scheduled for this year's first river run; The boat departs every hour between 9:00-14:00 (the last boat departs at 15:30); Tickets: 3,900 yen; Access: an 8-min. walk from north exit of JR Sagano Line Kameoka Stn.; Hozugawa Yusen Association: Tel: 0771-22-5846.


Until Dec. 29
Sagano Sightseeing Tram Ride
The Sagano Sightseeing Tram starts running in spring. The tram route (7.3 km) runs from Saga to Kameoka along a gorgeous river gorge and passes through 8 old tunnels; no service on Wed. (except for holidays and high season); Tickets: 600 yen; Access: JR Saga Arashiyama Stn.; Sagano Kanko Tetsudo: Tel: 075-861-7444.








Temple & Shrine Flea Markets


Nov. 3, Sun. & 23, Wed.
Kyoto City Hall: A huge public flea market; 10:00-17:00.

Nov. 6, Sun.
To-ji Temple: This market is focused on antiques of all kinds; Usually not too crowded and great value all around; 7:00-16:00.

Nov. 8, Tues.
Toyokuni Shrine: A very small market of local products; 10:00-15:00.

Nov. 13, Sun.
Bishamon-do in Kennin-ji Temple: Known as Tora-ichi, this market specializes in handicrafts & arts; 10:00-16:00.

Nov. 15, Tues.
Chion-ji Temple: Kyoto's biggest handicraft market; an absolutely amazing range of handmade things and incredible prices too!; 8:00-16:006.

Nov. 21, Mon.
To-ji Temple: Also known as Kobo-san, this mega temple market offers everything and is extremely popular; go early, especially if on a weekend or a national holiday; 7:00-17:00.

Nov. 25, Fri.
Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine: Also known as Tenjin-san, this super shrine market sprawls in and around this major shrine complex; 7:00-16:30.

Nov. 27, Sun.
Kamigamo Shrine: Handicrafts, arts, food, and more; 9:00-16:00.


NOTE: Markets shut down much earlier in autumn and winter; when the days get longer and warmer sellers tend to stay a little longer.